Bernat Klein c.1963 - 66, Martin Mandel, Image courtesy of National Museums Scotland
Bernat Klein’s vision about design, colour and creative practice continues to inspire.
In a career spanning six decades, Klein found international success in the interrelated spheres of fine art, fashion, textile design, architecture, industrial design, and colour consultancy.
Serbian born designer Bernat Klein (1922–2014) emigrated to the UK in the post-war period and based his textile manufacturing business in the Scottish Borders (1951–1992). He sold couture fabrics to leading couturiers such as Chanel and Dior, gained recognition in Scandinavia and North America, and realised two important modernist buildings with architect Peter Womersley (1923–1993).
High Sunderland, 2016, Gordon Burniston courtesy of Graphical House
“Design tries to get to the truth by the shortest route. It recognises that there are many routes to it and when it gets there it does not say: ‘This is the ultimate.’ It merely suggests a closer approximation than existed before to the best solution of the problem in hand. The implication is clear that this too will one day be replaced by something better.”
Design Matters, p.6
Timeline
Bernat Klein was a textile designer and manufacturer, artist and colourist. Throughout his life he exhibited locally and nationally with paintings held in private and public collections.
A more in-depth timeline is contained within the book Bernat Klein (Schoeser/ Harley) published by the Foundation.
Buy now
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Born 6 November in Senta, Yugoslavia (now Serbia), into an Orthodox Jewish family who were textile wholesalers
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Attends Bezalel School of Art & Craft, Palestine, initially studying fine art, then textile design
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Emigrates to Britain and studies Textile Technology at the University of Leeds
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Designer at Tootal Broadhurst Lee in Bolton, then moves to Scotland to design for Munrospun in Edinburgh and, from 1950, Galashiels
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Becomes a naturalised British Citizen
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Marries Margaret Soper (d.2008)
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Completion of the Klein family home, High Sunderland, architect Peter Womersley
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Publication of autobiography Eye for Colour and Personal Colour Guides 1 - 6 which you can buy here
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Builds the Bernat Klein Studio, architect Peter Womersley, RIBA Design Award 1973
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Publication of Design Matters which you can buy here
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Publication of Bernat Klein, Textile Designer, Artist, Colourist
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Throughout his life Bernat Klein was a practising artist, exhibiting work in exhibitions locally and nationally with paintings held in private and public collections and archives
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1952–1966
Colourcraft Ltd and Bernat Klein Ltd (BKL), Galashiels, Scotland1966–1972
Bernat Klein Design Consultants Ltd1973–1989
Bernat Klein Design Ltd1981–1992
Bernat Klein Ltd , in sequence undertaking:Womenswear and menswear woven fabrics (1958–1987)
Knitting yarns and garments (1963–1992)
Carpets, flooring and enamelled metal ware (1963–c.1979)
Colour consultancies and planning (1965–late 1970s)
Sales and showrooms (1964–1981)
Upholstery fabrics (1966–1979)
Ready-to-wear (1966–1989)
Screen-printed polyesters known as the Diolen collection (1968–1981)
Our Purpose
The Bernat Klein Foundation was launched in 2018 to develop and manage the legacy of Bernat Klein.
Through its work in education, research, publication and exhibition, the foundation creates new opportunities. These include educational awards, commissioning new creative content such as short films, and the co-curation of exhibitions, which showcase contemporary practice inspired and influenced by Bernat Klein. The foundation also encourages public engagement through events, workshops and talks, and its partnerships enable contributions to creative and cultural communities across Scotland.
‘Lichen’ 3’, Bernat Klein, 1966; oil on canvas, Image courtesy of National Museums Scotland
Our Trustees & Patron
Our trustees and patron reflect a range of professions with knowledge and expertise that shape and guide the development of the foundation.
The foundation is a creatively-led organisation underpinned with highly experienced educational, curatorial, publication, business and development skills. Through the board of trustees and patron, the foundation contributes to cultural and material heritage, as well as supports contemporary practice; and combined networks extend nationally and internationally.
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Alison Harley is a Founding Trustee & Chair of the Bernat Klein Foundation, and Creative Director for projects developed and delivered by the foundation. Alison has worked in senior leadership roles in Art & Design Higher Education as Head of the School of Design, The Glasgow School of Art; Dean of the Faculty of Design, Lasalle College of the Arts, Singapore; and Professor and Head of the School of Textiles & Design, Heriot-Watt University. As an academic leader she developed initiatives in learning and teaching, and research and knowledge exchange, as well as new organisational structures for each organisation. In 2012 Alison interviewed Bernat Klein at his home High Sunderland, in which he discussed his work as a designer, artist and industrialist. Since 2016 Alison has worked as an independent practitioner developing her particular interest in Bernat Klein, which has been shared through exhibition and publication, including Bernat Klein (Schoeser / Harley) published in 2022 marking Klein’s centenary. Established early in her career through the gallery system, Alison’s studio practice continues to inform and underpin her ideas about the Klein archive collections. Alison studied Textile Design at Glasgow School of Art, and also holds an MLITT Dress & Textile Histories from the University of Glasgow.
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Jonathan Klein (only son of Bernat and Margaret Klein) has spent his working life as an academic, and is currently an Associate Professor working in the field of Management Science at the Southampton Business School (University of Southampton). Jonathan has published extensively in academic journals, and his research focuses on particular interests in problem structuring and solving, and their role in healthcare management. Jonathan is also a keen musician and singer-songwriter.
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Lynsey is a textile designer and practitioner, researcher and educator who has published practice-based research on a range of topics. Lynsey studied Printed Textile Design in the School of Textiles & Design at Heriot-Watt University, Scottish Borders Campus, and holds a PhD in Fashion and Perception also from Heriot-Watt University. While writing her thesis, Lynsey met Bernat Klein and developed an interest in his work, which she continues to explore through her textile practice. Currently Lynsey is the Technical Team Leader for Textiles at The Glasgow School of Art, alongside her role as Print & Dye Technician that supports staff and students across all areas of printed and dyed textiles.
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Shona Sinclair is the Curator for Live Borders Museums, Galleries and Archives, in the Scottish Borders. With over twenty-five years of curatorial experience, Shona has led the development of many innovative museum projects in the Scottish Borders, including the opening of Borders Textile Towerhouse in Hawick in 2010. Shona’s interest and study of Bernat Klein has led to the development of a museum collection of over hundred examples that explore his life and career in the Borders Textile Industry. Shona studied in the School of Textiles at Heriot-Watt University, followed by Museum Studies at St Andrews University. Shona is an Associated Member of the Museums Association.
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Alex is a postgraduate researcher in Design at the University of Leeds, studying the intersection of late 20th century art and fashion as created by his own grandmother—artist-craftsman Marian Clayden. His previous education has been in Classical History through both the University of California and University College London. He currently works in financial crime prevention for the financial sector. Alex was introduced to the Foundation through Mary Schoeser, the Foundation’s Patron and long-time friend of his grandmother. He is also a devoted Quaker.
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Maggie Marr is a Founding Trustee & the Secretary for the Bernat Klein Foundation, and Project Manager for projects developed and delivered by the foundation. Maggie has worked in textile manufacturing, training, education and business development across Scotland’s private and public sectors. She has worked with industry, councils and enterprise agencies in Scotland and Ireland in the development of initiatives to support economic regeneration in local communities. These initiatives have included the design and management of training, education programmes and industry / education partnerships, which has led to the further development of the textile industries in the Scottish Borders, Shetland, Outer Hebrides, and Donegal, Ireland. She has worked at a senior management level, developing, and delivering art, design, and textile programmes in Further and Higher Education and has been employed by Scottish Borders Council, University of the Highlands and Islands, University of Edinburgh, and Heriot-Watt University. Over the last 14 years she has worked as a freelance consultant. Maggie studied Industrial Textile Design and is a graduate of the Scottish College of Textiles.
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Jana Hutt has worked in skills, quality and business development at senior levels with organisations such as Highland and Islands Enterprise, and as an independent auditor for government training schemes. She has also contributed to the Scottish Children’s Panel and as a Board Member for UHI Moray College. As Chair of the Knockando Woolmill Trust Jana led a major restoration project with trustees to raise £3.55 million, establishing a heritage-based commercial company in 2009.
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Wendy has worked within the Scottish textile industry since first graduating from Glasgow School of Art in printed and woven textile design in 2009. She is an advocate of design thinking and collaboration between traditional businesses and creative practice. With over 14 years' experience in creating marketing strategies, Wendy launched her consultancy practice Concept Counsel in 2020. Wendy is currently working on a range of ambitious projects that transform creative vision into tangible ideas and plans, with a particular focus on customer experience and brand awareness.
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Michael Wolchover studied interior and furniture design at Central St Martins, and has since pursued a career in photography and interpretation of the built environment, always with an interest in textiles. More recently, an opportunity to photograph the house and studio at High Sunderland for the Bernat Klein exhibition at Dovecot Studios, brought these two themes very neatly together and prompted a desire to help keep the Klein legacy alive. Now based in Fife, Michael is also involved with design projects celebrating the heritage of the linen industry.
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Joanne graduated with BA (Hons) in Textile Design from Heriot-Watt University, School of Textiles. Since 1999 she has worked in a variety of roles within the textile industry across design, marketing, sales and buying. Joanne has worked in both the UK and Indian textile industries, and has also sold her textile designs internationally to high-end European brands. Joanne currently runs her own textile trend forecasting studio, and is also a homeware designer and buyer for Campbells of Beauly in Scotland. She is passionate about colour and seeking inspiring visuals for her textile designs, and also loves to help unleash creativity in others by running weaving and colour workshops.
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Mary Schoeser’s numerous publications include World Textiles: A concise history (T&H: 2023). A consultant archivist to enterprises including Collier Campbell, Laura Ashley, Liberty of London, MYB Textiles, Sanderson, and Scottish Borders Studio, she understands manufacturers and production itself. Restoration work with historic property owners, as well as 35+ curatorial projects, underpins her understanding of visitor experiences. Currently Honorary Senior Research Fellow at the V&A Museum, she is also Patron of the School of Textiles, Coggeshall.
